After my huge elastic buy up earlier in the year, my underwear sewing enthusiasm waned and my energy moved to larger projects. But, it has got to the stage where the last of my rtw underwear needed replacing so I had no choice but to either buy more or to make some.
I had some lovely lycra knit from this op shop fabric haul. I butchered an old tee shirt to make the knicker linings and underwires were removed from an old rtw bra. Once again I used Kwik Sew 3300 for the bra as I find the fit perfect and McCalls 5400 bikini pants for the knickers.
I constructed the bra slightly differently this time and didn't actually follow the instructions. Because I wanted a slightly padded bra, I added an extra internal layer of poly cotton brushed sweatshirting but I didn't want any of the seams visible in the finished product. I constructed 3 complete cups and then stitched the lining to the interlining making sure I topstitched all of the centre seams flat. I then stitched the outer layer to the two bottom layers. I also found with the first bra I made that the piece of fabric between the cups stretched out when I used iron on interfacing, so this time I sandwiched a layer of cotton duck in the middle for extra stability.
The only change I made to the underwear was to narrow the crotch slightly and make the elastic slightly tighter because it seemed to have less stretch.