Cone Mills Denim Morgan Jeans

Part of my current sewing resolve is to use treasured fabrics but not in a reckless way.  I want to use my treasured fabrics for items that I will love wearing and keep for a long time.

A recent purchase for me is a piece of green Cone Mills denim.  Cone Mills denim is much talked about in sewing circles but not something that had been on my radar because it wasn't available in New Zealand; that is until recently!  Miss Maude bought some into the country and even though it was probably the last thing I needed to buy, my interest was peeked enough that I just had to see what the fuss was about.  I ordered 1.5m which is just enough for a pair of jeans for me.

When my denim arrived, I admit, I was a little underwhelmed.  It is an unusual shade of green and the crosswise fibres just seemed a little off grain.  I immediately threw it in the wash and when it came out it was a little scrunched, a bit like linen but soft, so soft!  It responded well to an iron which was another plus.

Once my fabric was ready to make up, I immediately put the brakes on.  I was having doubts about the pair of Megan Neilsen Dawn jeans with wide legs that I had been obsessing about in my head since I ordered the fabric.  I think the fabric probably sat in view in my sewing room for a couple of weeks before I changed direction completely and decided to make a pair of Closet Case Morgan Jeans.  Oh, did I mention, that I love my blue Morgans and they are on regular rotation because they are the most comfortable jeans I own?


With my anxiety now completely removed, I cut out my Morgans.  I had recently bought a box of second hand overlocker threads and in amongst it was the perfect green top stitching thread.  I don't think it is actually top stitching thread but it was hefty and I think I have enough to top stitch jeans for the whole of New Zealand with the amount I have acquired.  My machine however had other ideas, and fought me the entire way.  Because the colour is complementary, any imperfections in the stitch tension, are for the most part invisible.  Thank goodness, but note to self, I won't be in a great hurry to use the other gazillion metres of this thread that I have acquired!

Green is not a colour that I wear a lot of, for some unknown reason, so I struggled to find a piece of complementary fabric for the pocket bags in my scrap bin.  I had a piece of Liberty Matchstick poplin and although the match (see what I did there) isn't perfect, it works I think!  Because I have rather a healthy stash of rivets and jean buttons, the notions except for the zip all came from my stash.

A little tip if you like to keep your waistband from stretching out, sew a strip of cotton tape just above the seam at the top of the waistband.  I do this as well as adding fusible interfacing to one of the waistband pieces.  

I am really pleased with the finished jeans.  The denim, looks a little linen like with the two shades of thread used in the weave.  My only regret now is I didn't buy a piece of the mustard as well!