Fantail Shirts

The Sewing Revival Fantail Shirt and Sweatshirt has been on my wish list for a while now and with the onset of spring it was bumped to the top of my list.  I wasn't too sure how this style would work for my pear shape as it is quite a boxy shape.  I wasn't deterred though figuring I could make it work somehow.

I had a piece of leftover linen from a dress I made a few years back now.  The actual dress no longer fits so I had saved this as well.  Between the leftover fabric and the dress, I had more than enough fabric to make a wearable muslin.

As I expected, the top was too boxy for my shape so I got my French Curve out and created a curve in the side seam starting at the armpit and finishing at the hem; curving approximately 3cm. I also ran the side seams in because the top was just generally too big all over.  

Once I was happy with the fit, I cut down the pattern to the size smaller and changed the side seam on the bodice to my new curved shape.  I also shortened the entire top to better reflect my 160cm height becuase The Sewing Revival draft their patterns for a 172cm tall woman.  I made the neckline smaller as well because this is another area that is often too large for me.

For my second version of this pattern, I chose a piece of linen that I picked up from the remnant bin at The Fabric Store.  This has been in my stash for quite a while so it is nice to get it finally made up.  This time, I didn't make a facing for the neck.  I opted instead to use bias tape.  I made my own tape from some leftover silk cotton from another project and used this both on the neck and back hem.

My remnant was quite small so I needed to cut the sleeve short.  I added a seam and enclosed this in the elastic casing so it is nearly invisible.

Now my third version of the pattern came about almost by accident.  We were in lockdown in New Zealand and I needed to make a few more masks so that my daughter could wear them for work. I try to have different prints for different family members which is where my latest fabric came in.

Before making my Deer & Doe Melilot Shirt in autumn, I made another top that turned out to be an absolute disaster.  Unusually I didn't finish it and just threw it unceremoniously in the scrap bin. After making a couple of masks, I wondered if there was enough fabric to make a different top out of the failed top and the fabric that was leftover. I really like this sort of project.  It really forces me to think outside the box to make it work.

For this particular top, I did manage to cut the back in one piece, just but the top required a seam down the front.  I wanted to make this look intentional so pressed the seam apart and topstitched both sides down.  Once again, I used self made bias tape both on the neck and hem.  

The sleeves are made from a piece of white linen also left over from another project.  I needed to cut the sleeves on the cross grain to make these work and added a false hem.  The join is right on the fold of the sleeve so once again unnoticeable to all but me.

Of all three tops, I think the last one out of scraps is my favourite, but isn't that always the way!