Plaid Burdastyle Blazer



 As part of my winter sewing plan, I wanted to make a blazer.  As my work is office based, a blazer would come in handy to throw over just about anything and make it office appropriate.  I had in mind, to make a plaid version as my trial version using some wool suiting I bought an entire roll of at auction a couple of years ago.  I also dug around in my stash and found a small amount of satin left over from a sleeping bag liner I made my son to take to India a few years ago.












Initially I was going to use Closet Case's new pattern because my news feed was filled with lots of lovely versions but I knew that in among my rather large collection of Burdastyle magazines I would find a pattern very similar if not the same.  A little bit of page turning and Google sleuthing later and I had found my pattern.  I settled on Burdastyle 03/2015 112.  Burdastyle patterns can be a bit hit and miss for me so I decided to make an actual fit muslin to get the fitting just as I wanted it.  After making up my initial fit muslin, I decided to add a bit of wearing ease as it just felt a little snug for my preference.  I added 5mm to my pattern at the side seams.  It wasn't until I had cut all of my plaid pieces and fused them that I realised that I hadn't added a seam allowance to my pattern up the back seam,  aargh!  Just as well I had an entire roll of fabric!  I recut the back, carefully matching up the plaid across and down the back.





I actually really enjoyed making this blazer.  The instructions were good because it was part of Burdastyle's sewing lesson for the month.  I used bits of the Closet Case pattern as well.  I used their shoulder pad pattern and sleeve head instructions and also interfaced and used the horsehair interfacing as per their instructions as well.  I chose not to use it on the shoulders in my jacket though and instead only used it on the collar.  For the lapels I double interfaced but didn't find the use of stay tape along the folds necessary.  If my fabric didn't hold a press so well, or was more slippery I could see how this could be a very good trick.




To make the shoulder pads, I cut two layers of the compressed dacron and two pieces of very heavy unbrushed polar fleece that was left over from one of my daughters projects.  I spent an hour or so hand sewing all four pieces together in rows.  This worked a treat and I really like the shoulders of the jacket.  I managed to sneak in shoulder pads without looking like something that was best left in the 1980's.




To make my life easier with the pattern matching I chose to cut my pocket flaps on the bias.  The insertion of the dart in the front had made my plaid run offsquare so this was a no brainer.   I either accentuated the wonky stripes with my pocket flaps or disguise it with the bias.  I chose the latter.   I also made the collar run on the bias for a bit of interest and to make my life a whole lot easier.



I really love the way the blazer turned out.  It is as comfy to wear as I hoped and I have even had a few unsolicited compliments on it.  I really want to make a black one now, but I think I need a palate cleanser first.



These photos were all taken at 8.30 this morning, before work, as the sun was coming up.  The day hadn't yet hit zero degrees.  As cold as it was, this frost would have been gone an hour later and we were rewarded with a nice sunny and still day.

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