Papercut Sapporo in Boiled Wool

Papercut Sapporo has been in my 
pattern collection since last winter waiting on the right fabric to make it up.  With something this oversized I wanted a drapey fabric but it also needed to have weight to be a winter appropriate coat.  I had seen just about every version on IG and even my sister made one and was very happy with how it turned out.  There was still a little bit of nagging doubt about whether I would like such an oversized coat on me.

Courteney happened to be in Fabric Vision and found some wool knit which resembles a boiled wool which got me thinking.  Me thinking is a dangerous occupation at the best of times because this mulling things over is where my most bizarre schemes usually originate and this situation was no different.  Suffice to say 5m of the wool came home with her.  Three metres was to be for my Sapporo and 2m was for her to do something with.  Now, the Sapporo Coat is meant to be made in a woven but I have never let a little thing like fabric recommendations sway me before.  I was pretty sure it would work if I took a bit of extra care.  At this point I had no intention of lining it but binding the seams instead.  A bit of a rummage  through my stash unearthed the perfect remnant of navy satin that I could use, so line it I did.

To deal with the oversize of the coat, I simply printed it at 94%.  Papercut Patterns are drafted for 170cm tall women and I am 160cm tall which is precisely 94% of that height.  I did intend to make the coat to a medium because enlarging my measurements by 6% put me in the medium size.  I had read though that the measurements ran large, so a quick check with the tape measure revealed I could actually fit a small.

I had just enough lining to cut this out and probably about a metre too much of the fabric.  This could have been due to printing the pattern smaller, but I will be aware of this if I ever make another.

To stop the fabric stretching at key points, I added stay tape to the sleeve openings at the wrist and at the top of the pockets.  I also interfaced the collar and catch stitched the collar facing to the collar to stop it rolling which it had a tendency to want to do.

All in all this was a very satisfying make and is completely doable in a knit.  I am sure this will get a ton of wear.

The above photos were taken while on holiday in Queenstown.  My Sapporo was the perfect weight to throw over a pullover to wear downtown for a bit of shopping, sight seeing and out for dinner.