I Made Pants!
This is something to be celebrated. I have never been 100% happy with any of the pants I have produced in the past, jeans being the exception. Shorts on the other hand, I have perfected! My current collection of Thurlow shorts, I absolutely love to wear. Now if I could achieve the same level of satisfaction with trousers, I would be one very happy camper. To date I have learn't that success is largely dependent on fabric and cotton sateen like my previous pair are a poor choice. They tend to grow during the course of the day. I have also learn't that when sewing with my preferred stretch fabric, it is a really good idea to line the waistband with non stretch fabric. I apply this technique to all of my pants and shorts now to prevent them stretching out during the day.
Using my improved Thurlow pattern from my previous pair, and a
piece of stretch twill, this time I laid my jeans pattern on top. What I noticed was my altered Thurlow pattern was remarkably similar at the front but the back had far more volume through the thighs. While I sewed up my new pants, a plan was forming. I was reluctant to shape my new Thurlow trousers like my jeans pattern, just in case they proved too tight. I decided to use my measure twice and cut once philosophy and base the trousers together using the jeans shape. Oh my goodness, what a difference! The bagginess through the back thighs and seat had disappeared. Alongside this dramatic change I also removed 1cm at the centre back seam and 1cm at each side seam at the waist as well as tapering the legs below the knee by 1cm on the outside seam. There could probably be more done to perfect this pattern but for now I am pretty happy.
I realised that I never use the back welt pockets but do like them to break up the large area of fabric across my seat. This time I decided to cheat and made faux welt pockets, or, pockets to know where. By stitching them permanently closed I have avoided any potential gaping pockets.